"What's that in the mirror, and
the corner of your eye?
What's the footstep following, but
never passing by?"
Dr Who, Series eight, episode 4/12:
'Listen' (Saturday 13th September 2014 BBC1)
Have you ever had that feeling that you
are not alone? It's impossible to describe, but once felt rarely
forgotten. Like a shadow falling across your path, a cool breeze
blowing over your shoulders from behind, when there is no open
window. You may shrug it off, especially once back in the sunlight,
and yet …. something remains. You feel changed.
It was a rainy Autumn day a few years
back. I had recently moved to a new county in the English countryside
and I liked exploring it without plans. Taking unexpected turns from
main roads while out on errands. I'd been researching the area and
had a raggedy folder stuffed with historical notes, clippings of
places of interest, country homes and village pubs and shops. It
would take me a very long time to get through my list of visits –
but I was in no hurry.
Especially on that grey afternoon when the
rain was coming down so hard that I could hardly see the road let
alone follow it. I meant to visit the medieval Littlecote House, but not that day,
not in that rain. Instead of taking my normal route home, following
the road around the corner by that enchanting thatched cottage on the
edge of the woods I found myself going straight on, on a road I had
never traveled. I have no idea why.
It was misty with fog and very
little light filtered through the trees lining the road. The thought
crossed my mind how quiet it was, except for the
sound of my windscreen wipers. I realised that I had turned the radio
off, as if I needed to hear better, as I could not see well, there in
the woods.
The road meandered down and at the bottom the front of Littlecote House came into view. It was magnificent, accented by the creeper that adorned it in a rich ruby red. There was no mistaking the antiquity of the house. I barely had time to admire it before the road swept around behind it. There I was, in a car park by the back gate to the gardens of Littlecote House.
I bolted through a tall wrought iron
gate up the garden path with my head down to shield from the still
falling rain. I found
myself there, at the back door, past another gate, and through it into a hall.
The house was eerily quiet, like it had been in my car. I felt I was in a different world, had gone through some threshold either driving, or running. Littlecote House has stood for a very long time. I do not think that the house is evil, but it has seen many lives pass through it in the hundreds of years which it has stood there proudly surrounded by it's woods.
If ever there was a house which was inhabited by ghosts, watched over by The Fae, Littlecote House with it's Gothic windows and ancient oak and stone - must be just such a place.
Fairies looking through a Gothic arch, in original frame |
This painting by the Victorian artist John Anster Fitzgerald is one of my favourites, appropriate for a midsummer night or for Halloween. I think it captures the ethereal quality of Faerie spirits so well. Beautiful free characters, magical but also mischievous and unpredictable. Littlecote House has this kind of magic about it and you can imagine coming upon a Faerie troupe gazing through one of the Gothic arches there.
ArtMagick describes the painting thus:
"This painting shows a night-time scene where a small troupe of fairies has arrived at the entrance to a Gothic ruin. Through the arch a brilliant light shines, illuminating the fairy group. One of them carries a wreath and a chain of flowers. In its original frame, this is one of Fitzgerald's most haunting and tantalising fairy paintings. The fairies are certainly acting with intent and may, indeed, be up to no good - which would be characteristic of Fitzgerald. If this painting is based upon an actual myth or story, that myth has yet to be unearthed."
Littlecote House is run as a hotel today but much of the house remains as it might have been centuries ago when Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, King James II, William of Orange or Charles II visited. It's said that Henry courted Jane Seymour here after the demise of Queen Jane. One of the owners was a champion of Oliver Cromwell and his campaign to rid England of it's monarchy, then abruptly changed sides and had Charles II and his French Catholic Queen to dinner for which he kept his head and became a Knight of Bath.
A suit of armour beckoned me into the Great Hall.
The history of the house lays across
it, like a fog permeating my sight and thoughts. The hotel was full of guests and yet I encountered
no one. It was as if they had all just stepped out and would return
at any moment.
There was a half finished jigsaw puzzle upon the enormous heavy oak sideboard.
Unfinished tea lay on a side table by
the high backed raspberry velvet chairs. Light through the
ancient stained glass window flickered and danced multi-coloured
patterns upon the stone floor.
How long I stood there in the shadows I do not know. The day was near end as something led me through a heavy door and up the stairs. Littlecote House is known to be one of the most haunted houses in England. A sign on the stairs points you towards The Haunted Bedroom and The Long gallery, also haunted according to local tradition. The last light of the day illuminated angels in an ethereal stained glass window on the stairs.
The bedroom is through an outer hallway
with lush red carpeting and dark wooden panelling.
The room itself
looks out over the gardens otherwise it is in semi darkness. The
first thing which you see are two figures, of a man and a woman. You
start - as they look so lifelike that you believe you are not alone in
the small room. Or maybe it is just a feeling that you have. The man is dressed as if for travelling, in tall
boots, a cloak and gloves. The woman is dressed modestly and she
holds a bundle in her arms. You feel as if you have intruded upon
some drama which you cannot understand.
Fantastically carved faces on the
stark plaster mantel over the fireplace glow against dark wood panel of the walls.
A small Elizabethan
oak canopy bed is simply dressed. In the dark corner by the fireplace is a side
table, upon it a man's hat with a feather on it.
An explanation of the scene which
you witness is well known in these parts but has passed into legend so that details are impossible to confirm and there are many variations on the story. It is supposed to have occurred in 1575 during the reign of Elizabeth I.
The man is Lord of the Manor, 'Wild' William Darrell, well known for his dark character. The woman a midwife known as Mother Barnes, who
was brought to the house blindfolded by an agent of the Lord, sworn to secrecy to deliver an unidentified
lady of a child she was carrying. A horrific scene ensued in which William Darrel himself snatched the new-born infant and threw it upon the blazing fire, and
held it there by a boot until it had died. The true identity of the man,
the lady and the poor child remain unconfirmed but many tales abound with various substantiation available. He was never tried for this crime although it was investigated after the midwife told authorities. But his story did not end happily. William Darrell made many enemies and accrued great debt. There must not be many who mourned him when he broke his neck in a fatal fall from his horse in 1589 while riding on the estate. We will never know for sure what spooked the horse, but locals like to believe that the ghost of a lady carrying a baby crossed his path. It is said that he haunts this room, the spot on the grounds where he died and the church at Ramsbury, two miles away.
Sir Walter Scott heard tell of this tale and used it for his poem 'Rokeby'
Although this manor is now a hotel, no one ever sleeps in this bedroom.
Sir Walter Scott heard tell of this tale and used it for his poem 'Rokeby'
Although this manor is now a hotel, no one ever sleeps in this bedroom.
~ ~ ~
I had
been taking photographs of the house throughout my visit there and had
found that I was having trouble focussing the camera. I put this down
to the hour of the day and the lack of light causing difficulty. I
quickly recorded this room. As the day grew darker yet I realised how
late it was and I hurried through the house and out into the
gardens towards my car. Outside Littlecote House seemed different.
Had it shared a secret with me?
Months passed with little thought of
that afternoon. One day I came upon the photographs from my
first visit there and The Haunted Bedroom. All the images from that
day are clear, throughout the house. But in the corner of the bedroom
where the hat of the man lay on the old table there is a strange
blue light, in every photo that I took.
I often visit Littlecote House. I have noticed that there are strange lights and shadows throughout the
house, and in the gardens. Especially at this time of year, and particularly at twilight.
You never really feel alone at Littlecote, as if ancestors cling to a place they once loved.
There are faces everywhere, wax figures of past inhabitants, in paintings, tooled into the paneling, in the over mantels and on the furniture. The eyes of angels watch from stained glass windows, and darker beasts from carved oak.
The house itself has a melancholy air yet parts of the gardens are joyous even in winter, and in the mornings you may glimpse a Deer and hear the birds singing in the woods. But there are dark places and spirits here too.
I would not like to wander too far in the woods after nightfall. You may well meet with spirits there. It is said that should you stray close to "Wild Darrell's Leap," you might encounter him riding a half wild black stallion.
The house itself has a melancholy air yet parts of the gardens are joyous even in winter, and in the mornings you may glimpse a Deer and hear the birds singing in the woods. But there are dark places and spirits here too.
I would not like to wander too far in the woods after nightfall. You may well meet with spirits there. It is said that should you stray close to "Wild Darrell's Leap," you might encounter him riding a half wild black stallion.
Arthur Rackham, master illustrator |
NOTES:
In another twist to this tale, the Popham family who owned Littlecote House after William Darrell owned a Derby winner who they named Wild Dayrell. Wild Dayrell was retired to their stud at Littlecote, and according to the site Thoroughbred Heritage, " he remained "an especial pet" for the rest of his life. He died, "of apoplexy," probably a heart attack, in his stall at Littlecote a few hours after finishing a hearty breakfast on November 27, 1870, age eighteen."
Thank you to Haunted Wiltshire, please see their website for wonderful images and information on Littlecote House. Read more HERE:
Littlecote House has a Wiki page, HERE:
The page on 'Fairies looking through a Gothic Arch' on ArtMagick, a most useful source for research can be found HERE:
Oh now Mrs Black! I probably should have waited until the safety of daylight before I read this but instead I'm just enjoying a small glass of red by a lamp, a candle and a dying fire. And Mr K is away for a couple of nights!!! Fascinating tale and somewhere I'd love to visit - but not on my own! Jane x
ReplyDeleteEnjoy that wine! You must visit Littlecote and when you do let me know, I'll meet you there for a coffee - strictly in the daylight hours. x
DeleteDearest Minerva,
ReplyDeleteThat was quite a story... nice to go to bed with!
One wonders about all that happened way back in time.
Enjoy your Halloween and the Fall.
Hugs,
Mariette
Mariette, So nice to hear from you! x
DeleteA great tale!
ReplyDeleteThank you Mike.
DeleteIt's a lovely house indeed. I went in once before it was a hotel, and I'm glad the magical atmosphere has been retained.
ReplyDeleteJenny, Yes, I am too. I always enjoy a visit there.
DeleteA good mysterious prelude took me to this stately magical mansion full of history. I am not sensitive to psychic phenomenon but I know some who seem to have psychic power and I understand there is such kind of things could exist. Somehow I remenbered the movie "The Others" starring Nicole Kidman with a twist ending. I would have cold feet to enter the haunted bedroom:-) Thank you for sharing the story.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much Cosmos. I love The Others, I think it was very well presented.
DeleteThat sounds very eerie, the bedroom with the blue light on the photos... I am not one for ghost stories, but I also would prefer not to sleep in a 'haunted house' - though the hotel seems absolutely beautiful.
ReplyDeleteThe feeling of someone you can't see being in the same room, which you describe so well, I never had - but one thing made me think for a long time after: in Schwäbisch Hall, where we were on an excursion with colleagues, there was a beautiful viewpoint near the town wall - and though I really wanted I could not step near it. Later I learned: it was the spot where they burnt witches in the Middle Ages (there was no sign of any kind for tourists - they rightly are not proud of it). So - I'm speaking of the feeling to have been before at a place one never had been before :-)
Your wonderfully woven story and its beautiful photographs did make me feel the spirit of the manor. I have had similar feelings, when you are somewhere all alone and there is a certain quality to the silence that makes you wonder if you have slipped out of time. Jane xx
ReplyDeleteWonderful tale!! You must have stepped through some warp in time to be alone in such a hotel. The little blue light is fascinating, and I love your narrative and accompanying photos. A rich and eerie experience. Wendy x
ReplyDeleteThank you Wendy, lovely to hear from you.
DeleteOh, I would go there if at all possible!
ReplyDeleteYou certainly provided us with some eerie photos!
The place is spooky in the Winter but less so in summer, although Midsummer Night would probably be eerie there!
DeleteWhat an amazing place to visit at this time of year when the veil is thinnest. Incredible to imagine the lives of the souls who inhabited and passed through that historic property.
ReplyDeleteI think you would love it there Amanda. And with your expert eye you would find things some of us miss. There is a Roman ruin there, a wonderful tiled floor.
DeleteInteresting and even fascinating despite the gruesome details. Thank you for the tour, I love history and you depict quite a tale there.
ReplyDeleteA warm hello from the Pacific NW coast,
Hello Noelle, Wonderful to hear from you! x
DeleteThe garden makes me think of Tom's Midnight garden. I enjoyed reading through your blog too. I also saw Midsummer's Night Dream in the 70's in Regent Park it was so magical seeing it in those surrounding. Sarah x
ReplyDeleteSarah, You are right! Tom's Midnight Garden, by Philippa Pearce. I had nearly forgotten it, a good story too. How lovely that you also saw Midsummers Night in Regents Park, such a special performance of it.
DeleteI stayed in Littlecote before itr was a hotel - my brother in law was the chef for the owners and we stayed overnight while the owners were away - me, my husband, my BiL and his girlfriend. That's all. In that huge house. Although I didn't see anything, I certainly felt uncomfortable all the time we were there. I don't think I would like to go back again, however luxurious the hotel!
ReplyDeleteI have been remiss to visit your blog. This story gave me the chills. What a creepy house! And that blue light in the photo does seem to indicate paranormal activity. Yes?
ReplyDeleteHope all things are going well for you.
It seems December and January are always the busiest months in our household, including getting the flu or bad colds which seems to lay me up for a few weeks. It's been foggy with a few sunny days, but like my husband said when he drove to work this morning in the Central Valley, agricultural area here in California, he hadn't seen fog that bad in ten years.
I love the fairy painting on your banner, so lovely and enchanting. I did read 'Jonathan Strange and Mr. Norrell by Suzanna Clake, just recently, and it sure opened up a darker side of the fae realm.
I love visiting you blog!
Teresa in California
http://amagicalwhimsy.blogspot.com/